Instead of my usual blog every day, I decided to write about each place I visit on this trip. And this time, Mumbai kicked it off. After a dreamy overnight flight involving a full row each, we got to Mumbai around lunch time.
Accommodation
We stayed in Basti Hostel, which was a tuk tuk ride from the airport. The 7-8 minute prediction from Google Maps became more like 45 when he couldn’t find it, but soon we were showered and in our A/C dorm. The hostel was nice, clean and sociable, offering a free traditional Indian breakfast with different dishes on rotation.
 |
| One of the breakfasts I had |
Its close proximity to the airport made it convenient, and the staff were helpful and friendly. It was around a 15 minute walk to the nearest train station, Khar Road. Even better: the reception had a dog. Unfortunately two people in our dorm snored SO loudly that we didn’t get the best night’s sleep, but that’s hardly the Hostel’s fault. They organised social events with other local hostels which was nice, and there was a mix of people staying with an A/C common area as well as a rooftop. We paid around 600 rupees per night each for beds in an A/C mixed dorm so it was a higher end hostel.
Transport
After being spoilt by Delhi’s A/C metro system, the Mumbai trains were a little less fun, but still an experience worth trying. With tickets 20 rupees (around 25p) for a return journey across the city they were more than affordable.
We bought our tickets from the desk- Make sure to stand your ground as people will try to push in front of you- queuing isn’t really a thing in India, and make sure to get a return so that you don’t have to queue twice. We also always checked which platform we needed to go to as the stations are big, but there were also desks on each where people could direct you.
We bought our tickets from the desk- Make sure to stand your ground as people will try to push in front of you- queuing isn’t really a thing in India, and make sure to get a return so that you don’t have to queue twice. We also always checked which platform we needed to go to as the stations are big, but there were also desks on each where people could direct you.
The trains themselves were overflowing with people, some
of whom would jump off at their station before the trains
had stopped. There were fans hanging from the ceiling
providing little relief from the heat, but if you were lucky
enough to get a seat, the journey was almost pleasant. We
tracked where we were using google maps, but the trains
also announce the next stop on a small screen and out loud, in both Hindi and English. Our tickets were only checked once, but for 20 rupees it would seem strange not to buy one.
of whom would jump off at their station before the trains
had stopped. There were fans hanging from the ceiling
providing little relief from the heat, but if you were lucky
enough to get a seat, the journey was almost pleasant. We
tracked where we were using google maps, but the trains
also announce the next stop on a small screen and out loud, in both Hindi and English. Our tickets were only checked once, but for 20 rupees it would seem strange not to buy one.
Uber and Ola are also cheap and convenient, and there are tuk tuks around too. We opted for metered tuk tuks though at times the traffic meant a fixed fare might have been better. We even managed to find a taxi at around 2am, but there were still Uber’s available too. We found the Uber pool option great if we weren’t in a rush to save an extra few rupees.
From Mumbai, there are plenty of onward travel options. We took a night bus down to Goa which we booked using
RedBus, but you can go to a lot of places directly, including
Goa.
RedBus, but you can go to a lot of places directly, including
Goa.
Sights
After reading Shantaram a couple of years ago, I had
slightly strange ideas of how Mumbai would be. I had
envisaged spotting the Mafia regularly, being offered drugs
and most of the city being a slum. From reading blogs I’d also anticipated being asked to be an extra in a Bollywood movie. Tragically, none of these things happened. Basti gave us a map with advice on eateries and attractions, most of which were in the South of Mumbai near to the Fort area. Just a short train took us here, and it was easy to walk or catch a short train/tuk tuk between things
slightly strange ideas of how Mumbai would be. I had
envisaged spotting the Mafia regularly, being offered drugs
and most of the city being a slum. From reading blogs I’d also anticipated being asked to be an extra in a Bollywood movie. Tragically, none of these things happened. Basti gave us a map with advice on eateries and attractions, most of which were in the South of Mumbai near to the Fort area. Just a short train took us here, and it was easy to walk or catch a short train/tuk tuk between things
Gateway of India- essentially a big arch. Arc de triomphe or Delhi’s India gate vibe. Nice to see, but we were very much the main attraction here rather than the arch. Nice but we went at midday and it was boiling. From here, many people
opt for a trip to Elephanta caves on a boat. We opted against this as I’m not mad keen on caves and the tourist
prices were massively inflated
opt for a trip to Elephanta caves on a boat. We opted against this as I’m not mad keen on caves and the tourist
prices were massively inflated
Colaba Causeway market- we were advised to only shop here if we were good at bargaining, and hey, I like a
challenge. There was a lot of nice clothing; western and English, jewellery, make up, phone accessories etc. We got a dress and jumpsuit, a couple of headbands, and I also got a full hand of henna done. This all totalled around 900 rupees, so less than £10.
challenge. There was a lot of nice clothing; western and English, jewellery, make up, phone accessories etc. We got a dress and jumpsuit, a couple of headbands, and I also got a full hand of henna done. This all totalled around 900 rupees, so less than £10.
Leopold- right at the start of the market was Leopold cafe. If you’ve read Shantaram this is the main cafe where they always go, and because of this I was excited to visit, though we only got a coke and some ice cream (budget life). It’s
been open since the 1800s and the staff were really nice
been open since the 1800s and the staff were really nice
Flower market- this was very pretty but a little underwhelming. Not sure if we missed half or if it was just
small, but we found a long road where flowers and petals are sold wholesale. They are very very pretty and we were both given a rose by a stall owner, but other than for photos we weren’t in need of any flowers so just made this a short
visit and got some lunch nearby
small, but we found a long road where flowers and petals are sold wholesale. They are very very pretty and we were both given a rose by a stall owner, but other than for photos we weren’t in need of any flowers so just made this a short
visit and got some lunch nearby
Dhobi Ghat- this is the largest outdoor laundry in the world. Again, you only need 5 minutes or so to observe from the looking platform, but its close proximity to the train station made this a cool sightseeing stop. The Dhobi’s work dawn til dusk washing clothes and are incredibly skilled- never
losing or damaging clothing. Each item washed costs the owner 3 INR, and the dhobis earn 100 rupees per day.
losing or damaging clothing. Each item washed costs the owner 3 INR, and the dhobis earn 100 rupees per day.
Marina Drive- we went along to the beach mainly to cool off. It’s not a touristy beach like Goa has, and was undergoing a lot of maintenance work. However, it was quieter and a bit cooler than other parts of the city, and we sat on the wall overlooking the beach and skyline for an hour or so. Some locals were doing complicated gymnastics on the beach which was cool to watch
Sanjay Gandhi National park- we were recommended the
national park by the hostel owner, and took a tuk tuk there. It was only 58 INR entry, but was just way too hot for us to enjoy it properly. We had hoped to visit the caves, do a tiger and lion safari and hike to the highest point, but ended up doing none. The caves were a 7km walk and high entry price for tourists, the lion and tiger “authentic safari” had reviews saying that they were in cages, and who wants to hike in late 30s heat?! We ended up hiring a pedalo boat for 59 rupees and then wandered around and also got a little train around the park. It was quite sweet and very cheap, but an average day. It would be more enjoyable on a car or motorbike, or maybe even just a bicycle, but we were too hot to cycle
national park by the hostel owner, and took a tuk tuk there. It was only 58 INR entry, but was just way too hot for us to enjoy it properly. We had hoped to visit the caves, do a tiger and lion safari and hike to the highest point, but ended up doing none. The caves were a 7km walk and high entry price for tourists, the lion and tiger “authentic safari” had reviews saying that they were in cages, and who wants to hike in late 30s heat?! We ended up hiring a pedalo boat for 59 rupees and then wandered around and also got a little train around the park. It was quite sweet and very cheap, but an average day. It would be more enjoyable on a car or motorbike, or maybe even just a bicycle, but we were too hot to cycle
Ladies night- one of my favourite features of Asia are thesenights where all females get free drinks. We found one at a place called London Taxi on a Wednesday evening, and took an Uber though. Free unlimited wine, sangria and cocktails all night. We had a great time and there were a few other westerners there, and they played a mix of Hindi and English music. Would recommend to all x The city generally has a great nightlife and if that’s your thing I’d stay somewhere like Basti which organised a lot of club nights and bar crawls
Food
South India has some of my favourite food. Dosas everywhere, pal bhaji...mmmmm. We had some yummy food including some great street food curry! Don’t be scared of street food, but I’d only eat at a dodgy looking place if there were other people there, so you know that they’re having to cook stuff freshly. Trust your instinct, but also the places that look the most questionable often have the nicest and mcheapest food
Other tips
If this is your first stop in India I’d recommend getting a SIM card. We went to a Vodafone store just down the road from Basti and were able to get a sim with unlimited data, calls and texts for 349 rupees. This is ideal when we’re out without WiFi, and I can hotspot meg so that we can both use it. Definitely worth £1.80 each
Don’t do a slum tour. Just don’t do it. I was tempted; a lot of
the profits go back into the slum, and I know that it operates largely as a business so was genuinely interested. But the more I think about it, the more I realise how morally dubious it is. Observing other people’s poverty? Let’s be honest, you’ll leave with a new found appreciation for what you have. But just do that without paying to see someone else’s misfortune. People living in slums aren’t zoo animals. They aren’t an attraction for foreign tourists to point their cameras at. They are living, breathing normal people with life experiences like ours who have found themselves in a different situation to you and I, and do not exist to make you feel more grateful. If you want to help, sponsor a child, contribute to a charity or buy snacks and water for the street children. But don’t do a slum tour.
the profits go back into the slum, and I know that it operates largely as a business so was genuinely interested. But the more I think about it, the more I realise how morally dubious it is. Observing other people’s poverty? Let’s be honest, you’ll leave with a new found appreciation for what you have. But just do that without paying to see someone else’s misfortune. People living in slums aren’t zoo animals. They aren’t an attraction for foreign tourists to point their cameras at. They are living, breathing normal people with life experiences like ours who have found themselves in a different situation to you and I, and do not exist to make you feel more grateful. If you want to help, sponsor a child, contribute to a charity or buy snacks and water for the street children. But don’t do a slum tour.
Laura x
No comments:
Post a Comment
:-)